Burgundy, Grand Crus in the countryside

By Claude Granveaud-Vallat

In 1990, in the heart of the Auxois region, the Château de Chailly Golf Course was born out of the determination of Yasuhiko Sata, a passionate Japanese enthusiast, and the talent of Géry Watine and Thierry Sprecher.

With its polished layout, designed between dry stone walls and beautiful water features connected to the Rubillon, the game is as enjoyable as it is varied. Between rolling greens, well-levelled tees and manicured, flower-filled roughs, harmony reigns supreme on an estate centred around a beautiful hotel, housed in a 16th-century château.

To talk about La Chassagne Golf Club is to talk about a family affair, that of the Rance family. At the beginning of the century, Philippe, the father, and his son Sébastien acquired a 115-hectare plot of land in the La Chassagne forest.

In 2012, nine holes were playable, and ten years later, the entire course was inaugurated between the high forest and the Douix, a stream that winds its way along the fairways. The views over the Ouche valley add volume to a fairly short but technical course. Strategy and precision are required before lingering on the terrace of a pretty clubhouse, which is soon to be extended.

Now in its thirties, the Château d'Avoise Golf Course has acquired a beautiful patina as the trees have grown around the fairways. On a former industrial wasteland, Martin Hawtree designed 18 holes on 120 hectares of gently rolling land. It is an interesting layout, alternating holes enclosed by foliage with wider, less stressful fairways leading to small, tricky greens. Between the birch, beech and oak trees, a few copses and a water feature that comes into play on a third of the course, the challenge is constant, until you reach the welcome respite of the terrace.

On the borders of the Yonne, Aube and Côte d'Or departments, the Château de Tanlay Golf Course was created in 1989.

In the grounds of the château, a Renaissance gem where Admiral de Coligny used to gather the leaders of the Protestant League before the St Bartholomew's Day massacre, Antoine d'Ormesson created a 9-hole course on flat land, running alongside the canal that supplies the estate's land from the Armançon. ‘A wicked river and beautiful fish,’ as Henri Vincenot said in Le Pape des Escargots, referring to this small Burgundian river. Surrounded by forest, the course is not very complicated despite its small greens, and the views of the château's turrets are elegant. At the clubhouse, where the restaurant serves delicious gourmet dishes, the wine list gives pride of place to the best bottles of Chablis, whose vineyards are almost within driving distance !

On the outskirts of Beaune, a renowned international tourist destination and home to the Climats of Burgundy, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Beaune-Levernois Golf Club features nine lakes and thousands of trees.
Since the arrival of the new director, Alessandro Leonardi, in January, improvements have already been made to the clubhouse and reception area, as well as changes to the management of course maintenance. Everything is in place to focus on improving the quality of maintenance and service. Its 300 or so members and thousands of annual visitors can already enjoy the 18-hole course and the compact 9-hole course, designed in a bucolic setting around several small ponds.

The Hôtel Golf du Château de Chailly is the ideal base for exploring Burgundy. Flanked by two white stone towers, the 16th-century château stands proudly overlooking the golf course.

With 45 rooms and suites beneath medieval panelling, and eight apartments with one to six bedrooms at Le Clos Champagnac – 100 metres from the château – the accommodation is tailored to guests who want to enjoy the region's attractions. The rooms, each with their own unique décor, offer all modern comforts. All are located in the château and its wings, overlooking the golf course and the countryside. Between the Rubillon bistro and the gourmet restaurant L'Armançon, the culinary riches of the region are showcased in the menus and wine list. Chef Alexandre Clochet-Rousselet, who came from the Relais Bernard Loiseau in Saulieu – a Michelin-starred restaurant in synergy with Chailly – confesses a particular interest in the products of the Morvan, his beloved region. ‘A dish must be good before it is beautiful,’ says the chef, who follows this adage with talent! In case the feasting is too generous, the Vinésime and Charme d'Orient spa relaxation area, with its jacuzzi, hammam and sauna, is a delight. The outdoor swimming pool, open from May to October, the tennis court and the fitness room complete the wellness area, which is enjoyable before and after a game.

The centuries-old capital of the Dukes of Burgundy, Dijon is a city of a hundred bell towers with a rich historical, architectural and gastronomic heritage that deserves attention, even affection, to be fully appreciated. While today the city is traversed by tourists on their summer travels, over the centuries it has been traversed by the Vandals, the Burgundians, the Arabs, the Normans... before the Dukes of Burgundy brought some order to their lands in the Middle Ages.

In this region where food is not just a word – Dijon is not just about mustard! – the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin, inaugurated in 2022 with a very modern architectural design – in partnership with UNESCO – aims to celebrate the French art of living. Admission is free, although some exhibitions and activities may be subject to a charge. Covering nearly 2,000 m², you will discover the many facets of French ‘good food and drink’ through tastings, interactive activities and meetings with producers, artisans, breeders and other passionate and fascinating people. In the Cave de la Cité, more than 3,000 wines are available, including 250 served by the glass – with a few Burgundy grands crus. Something to delight both your taste buds and your mind !

Gastronomy

Nicknamed the gold of Valois because it was served at the table of French kings since the Middle Ages, the Burgundy truffle (Tuber Uncinatum in Latin) is harvested from September to December.

It thrives on limestone plateaus and in woodlands planted with hazelnut, oak and beech trees, and is comparable to its black cousin from Périgord, even if its production is more limited. This autumn gem must be chocolate-coloured with white veins to receive the approval of the truffle inspector at the markets. At over £500/kg, there can be no compromise on quality. At the table, it goes well with scrambled eggs, risotto, scallops, mashed potatoes or, more simply, a slice of toast covered with truffle slices and accompanied by a Pinot Noir wine, such as a Mercurey. It is not advisable to cook truffles; it is better to add them to the dish just before serving.
Although humans have been eating snails since prehistoric times – the era of hunter-gatherers – the reputation of Burgundy snails dates back to the early 19th century. Talleyrand was fond of them and is said to have served them to Tsar Alexander I of Russia during the reign of Louis XVIII, during the first Restoration (1814-1815). The entire Parisian bourgeoisie became enamoured with this “exotic” delicacy, but it was important to know how to eat them without getting dirty. Today, French consumption is estimated at 30,000 tonnes per year, even though not all gastropods come from Burgundy. The Burgundy designation is linked to the preparation with butter, garlic and parsley that accompanies the small creatures when cooked. There are regional variations on this speciality, such as escargots à la franc-comtoise prepared on a fondue of cancoillotte cheese and Morteau sausage, à la bordelaise with morel mushrooms and red wine, Catalan cargolade cooked over charcoal, and more sophisticated versions such as the escargot cream with garlic confit butter from Relais Bernard Loiseau. Here, the little creature is sublimated, taking us to another world!

The craze for this sale drives prices up, where charity and reason are at odds... The big wine merchants all want to be involved, as it is a kind of barometer for wine prices around the world. In the region, this festive weekend is an opportunity for tastings at the estates, with winegrowers bringing out their finest bottles. What better way to treat yourself than by washing down some lovely birdies !