Chef Profile – Olivier Boizet – Domaine de Champlong

How would you describe your culinary style in a few words?
It’s a style of cooking that is, above all, based on the seasons. That’s the first thing. The second thing is a constant search for local suppliers who can provide me with exceptional produce. I place great importance on building relationships with local farmers and producers so that I can source magnificent produce that gives the cuisine a real identity. We work with a large number of small suppliers. When we can’t find what we’re looking for, we venture a little further afield, search, and eventually find the produce that appeals to us.

What are the specialities of your restaurant and/or your region?
We’re based in the northern part of the department, in Roanne, near the Charolais region, so we fully incorporate that into our menu. All year round, we serve a matured rib of beef for two, served with truffle mash and a shallot jus. It’s a classic dish, but one that’s always a hit and leaves a lasting impression on our customers who fancy a good cut of meat. The rib of beef weighs between 1.2 and 1.4 kg and is a real signature dish on our menu.

What is your go-to ingredient, or a simple ingredient that can transform a dish?
The star ingredient I love to work with is vegetables, as they really reflect the season. Right now, it’s asparagus: I can’t imagine spring without it. It’s the season that guides our entire menu and our creations. So there isn’t a signature dish that stays on the menu all year round, as we depend on the seasons.

What kind of experience do you want to offer customers when they visit your restaurant?
I always tell our customers that I’m simply a purveyor of pleasure. I believe we mustn’t lose sight of what really matters in a restaurant. The most important thing is, first and foremost, to feed our customers, and secondly, to give them pleasure through our creations. Customers come to the table to eat. And then, through our talent or our creations, we give them pleasure, whilst showcasing our region.

Could you share a recipe with us?
Asparagus season is approaching, so I’d like to suggest a simple dish of asparagus with morels. We’re lucky to have a morel farm nearby, run by young producers.
It’s a simple recipe, as I’m mainly aiming at beginners who want to try it at home. That’s why I run lots of cooking classes and workshops: the aim is to inspire participants to recreate the recipe using simple, easily sourced ingredients.

White Asparagus and Morel Foam
FOR 8 PEOPLE

THE MARKET

32 asparagus spears, depending on size / 16 dried morels, depending on size / 3 egg yolks / 3 egg whites / 200g butter /  30g raw hazelnuts / 20g flat-leaf parsley

- Preliminary Preparation the Day Before

• Peel the asparagus and store them in the fridge wrapped in a damp cloth.
• Soak the morels in cold water.
• Make your browned butter (beurre noisette) at 152°C and store it in the fridge.

- On the Day

• Cook the asparagus in heavily salted water and refresh them in cold water to stop the cooking process.
• Cook the morels with a small pinch of salt for about 10 minutes, drain them, remove the stems if necessary, reduce the cooking juice by three-quarters, and strain.
• Pour the cooking juice into a mixing bowl to make a double boiler and clarify the eggs. Start the sabayon with the yolks, whisking vigorously until the mixture is fluffy. Season and gradually incorporate the melted butter (but not hot). Put the mixture in a siphon, charge with gas, and shake vigorously.
• Keep at a temperature of 40°C to avoid cooking the eggs.
• Warm the asparagus in browned butter with chopped hazelnuts and morels. Just before serving, sprinkle with crushed parsley.
• Arrange the asparagus on a warm serving dish or in individual warm plates. For the preparation made in the siphon, either serve in a sauceboat or directly from the siphon in front of your guests.

- Chef's Tip
I recommend using large asparagus, as they have a superior flavor. Instead of morels, you can make this recipe with dried porcini mushrooms.

Domaine de Champlong
42300 Villerest
Tél. : 04 77 69 69 69.
www.domaine-de-champlong.com